Get Started Creating “Black Gold” aka Compost-Part 2

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So now that you’ve read all about “black gold”, you’re ready to take on assembling your own compost pile.  First thing you should know is that there are so many different ways to compost which is both awesome and overwhelming.  Awesome because it means you have choices.  And overwhelming because, well, which method should you go with?  Heck, I was getting a bit overwhelmed just trying to write this post.  I even found two new composting methods I’d never heard of as I was researching for this (which I won’t talk about here)!

So for simplicity’s sake, let me put some parameters in place for this post:

• I’ll be referring to outdoor composting only.  Yes, you can compost indoors, but that’s a topic deserving of it’s own post.  So if you truly don’t have any outdoor space to compost, some of this may not be applicable.  I apologize, and I’ll be happy to talk about indoor composting at a later time.
• I’m going to limit my discussion to the most well-known and practiced methods.  Believe it or not, you can get very creative with composting.  Some of those methods are worthy of being flushed out.  But we’re beginners here!  Let’s stick to and master the basics before we compost the training wheels.

Buckle in!  This post is going to have a lot of great information that I recommend tackling section by section once you’re ready to start your very own compost pile.

 

Selecting a Compost Site

The first thing you’ll want to do is select where your compost is going to live as this will inform quite a few of your subsequent decisions.  If you have a small outdoor space, you’re obviously going to be more limited than if you had acres of locations to choose from.  But you’ll still want to consider the following as you pick a spot.

• Do you live in an area with critters? Critters aren’t going to outright preclude you from starting a compost pile, but you’ll need to understand what kind of critters are in your area.  This might inform not only location (do you really want rats or raccoons hanging out by your back door?) but composting method (maybe a bin or tumbler would be the best method for you).
• Do you have any pets?  I’ll bet Fido would love easy access to those kitchen scraps…  Again, might need an enclosed composting method or put the pile somewhere puppies and kitties can’t get to it.
• Do you have HOA/lease restrictions?  I, for example, live in a neighborhood with strict homeowners association rules (grrrr!).  They would notice and not take too kindly if my compost pile were visible from the street.  So make sure you know your HOA rules as that may limit your location options.
• How are your winters/weather patterns/temperatures?  If you live somewhere with harsh winters (like I do) or heavy rain seasons, it might be more beneficial to place your compost close to your house for ease of access.  Weather can also determine extra efforts you’ll need to take to maintain adequate moisture levels of your pile.  And if you live somewhere hot, you might want to position your pile away from your house.  Although an extremely rare occurrence, it is possible that the hot weather plus microbial action can create enough heat for your compost pile to spontaneously combust! 
• Do you have any open dirt in your gardens you’re working on rehabilitating?  You might be able to go with a method that will pull double duty of creating compost and rehabbing your soil at the same time.

 

Collecting your Ingredients

If you’ll remember my list of greens and browns from part one, there are quite a few ingredients that go into a compost pile.  To ensure you’ll be able to consistently grow your compost supply, it’s a good idea to figure out how to keep some of these on hand.  Below are suggestions for different ways you can store your ingredients.

• Compost buckets/large tupperware: If you have never tried saving your compostable kitchen scraps before, I think you’ll be surprised at how much can accumulate on a daily basis (I know I was!).  You can purchase a compost bucket for your kitchen for around $20-$40.  They typically come in about a gallon size with lids fitted with a charcoal filter to help reduce odors if you can’t make daily trips to the pile.  I haven’t convinced myself to splurge on one yet, so I’m using a Ziploc plastic container for now.  Works just fine.
• Freezer: If you don’t feel like making the daily trip to the pile during the winter or you just have excess kitchen scraps on hand, freeze them!  You can add them directly into your pile when you’re ready for them.  
• Containers for brown recyclables: I currently keep my shredded paper bags, paper towel tubes, and documents in a cardboard box.  I also have a lidded trash bin to store ash from my wood stove.  You can of course use whatever suits you-a box, plastic bin, canvas bag, etc.
• Areas outside for sticks, leaves, etc. piles: If you have the space, you can organize some of your materials into their own piles or bins until you’re ready to combine with the main pile.  Yes, they will go ahead and start breaking down  a bit on their own.  Awesome!
• Leaf bags/garbage bags: If you like filling those orange, Halloween, pumpkin bags with leaves for decor, they automatically double as your leaf storage.  Or you can be like me and just rake your leaves into a boring black bag.  My leaves currently lives in my shed for next spring’s use.

 

Picking the Method That’s Right For You!

So, so, so many ways to compost!  But you want to make sure you go with the method that works best for you and your life.  Below I’ll talk about the most common methods out there, their setup and maintenance requirements, and potential pros and cons of each.

Open Pile

Exactly as it sounds, an open pile is your compost pile open and exposed to the elements.  The general internet gardening consensus is that you should aim to maintain at  minimum a 3 ft x 3 ft x 3 ft pile for optimal composting.  So if you need a large amount of compost, this is an effective method.  Because of the potential for attracting pests, I would strongly recommend placing this pile away from the home.

You can start your pile by building a  grid-like base using sticks because it allows airflow to the base of your pile.  If you don’t have sticks, that’s ok.  Just start layering your browns and greens.  But keep in mind you’ll need to  turn and aerate your pile manually every few days to get air in there (see the tools below for ideas on accomplishing this).  Don’t let your pile stagnate for too long, or it may not break down as quickly.  You’ll also want to keep a tarp on hand for covering your pile to protect against excess moisture from weather and/or drying.

Pros:  Because there’s not much method to the madness with assembling this pile, you can just chuck your ingredients on the pile and adjust your greens-to-browns ratio as needed.  Direct contact with the ground allows friendly critters, like worms, access to the pile to help it break down.  As it breaks down, nutrients from the pile will directly benefit the soil underneath making this a good option if you’re looking to rehab the underlying soil or  mix it in at a later time.  Beyond purchasing the tools to help you maintain your pile, this method is very cheap.  It’s also really easy to experiment with hot composting using this method if you ever want to give that a try (a topic for a future time).

Cons: Not the most aesthetically pleasing thing, so if you’re concerned about having a visible, ugly pile, there are neater options.  Open pile also means that it’s potentially open access to whoever wants in it.  If you live in an area with pests and are concerned about them hanging around, open pile may not be right for you.  The potential for pest issues makes the best placement for an open pile far away from the home, so trekking to the pile (especially in bad weather) might not be appealing.

Direct compost (burying in the ground)

Also known as pit or trench composting, direct composting is where you bury your compost materials (typically more kitchen scrap greens) directly into the ground where you need it.  Now eventually all compost will make it into the ground; with this method it happens up front prior to decomposition.  You’ll dig a hole or a trench in your garden, drop your compost materials, chop/break them up with your shovel, and finally bury them with soil.  A lot of gardeners recommend burying your materials a few weeks prior to planting to give it time to break down.

Pros: Eliminates a lot of maintenance work, thus saving you time on composting chores.  You might have to mix it occasionally, but not nearly as often as a pile.  You won’t need to wait to have a usable product after decomposition.  It’s directly conditioning the soil through the compost process and should be ready to go when you’re ready to plant.  This method also eliminates any visual evidence of a compost pile.  This method is also very cheap as it doesn’t cost anything beyond purchase of your gardening tools.

Cons: Like open pile, there’s potential for a pest and pet access problems.  So if this is a concern, you’ll want to dig and bury your scraps deeply.  I’ve also read that if you have food scraps that don’t fully break down prior to going into  a cold winter, there’s potential for insect pests to take up hibernating in the scraps only to wake up and attack your garden plants the following year.  So you’ll need to take extra care to make sure your garden is buttoned up in the fall.

Bins

So far, this is my preferred method.  You have the option to buy a compost bin or make your own, and there are so many ways to set up a system that works best for you.  For example, I wanted something that combines the benefits of an open pile (namely connection with the soil underneath) with the protection of an enclosed bin.  So I went with altering a Rubber Maid storage container using a drill and saw (post about that forthcoming).

There are two types of bins: open and enclosed.  Open bins are very similar to an open pile with the difference being that a bin contains the pile.  Enclosed bins typically have four solid walls and a top with compost accessible at the base of the bin.  All bins have some sort of vents in their walls to allow for adequate airflow.

Pros:  Highly customizable to your specific situation!  There is a very wide price range to bin setups meaning you can spend as little or as much as you want.  Bins can look a little tidier than just an open pile.  You can also create a setup that allows you to compost in different stages using multiple bins which means having compost readily available whenever you need it.

Cons:  Piles in bins can be difficult to turn and mix because you’re confined by the walls.  Being unable to adequately turn and aerate your pile means it’s going to take longer to create usable compost.  If you go with a DIY system, the initial setup is going to take more of your time (presumably in lieu of more money).  Bins can be damaged by weather over time, so you may need to repair or replace them at some point.

Tumbler

Tumblers are a type of enclosed bin.  However, instead of relying on manually turning the pile, you spin (or tumble!) the container to do the mixing and aerating for you.  This is wonderful option for those who have difficulty physically turning a pile.

Pros: This is a neat and tidy option for those who don’t want a messy pile.  If you only need a little bit of compost, these have natural limits on the quantities you can make at a time.  Tumblers may also yield quicker compost as they stay heated really well, aiding in decomposition.  Because tumblers are completely enclosed and elevated, they work great for keeping the rodents out.

Cons:  This method is not completely free of maintenance.  You still have to make sure your compost isn’t turning into a clumpy mess.  You may find it’s a little harder to control greens-to-browns and moisture levels, and re-balancing those can be tricky because you’re limited on space.  If you need lots of compost, you’ll either need a very large tumbler or several tumblers.  Out of all the options, tumblers are by far the most expensive, starting at about $100.  So if you’re trying to compost on the cheap, this is definitely not the way to go.

 

 Tools You May Need

There are plenty of tools out there that can make composting a whole lot easier.  Depending on how you want to manage your compost pile, you might decide some of these tools aren’t for you.  But I’ll list the ones I’ve found most helpful and what they’re good for.

Garden claw-This is by far my favorite tool I own.  I use mine to mix and aerate the compost pile.  It does a great job grabbing what’s at the bottom of the pile and moving it to the top (thus burying newer ingredients).  It’s also really wonderful at mixing ready-to-use compost into the soil.  I wouldn’t recommend a garden claw for large piles, but for smaller piles, it’s great.

Shovel-Odds are you’ll need a shovel for other gardening purposes.  For composting, you can use it for mixing your pile or integrating the compost into your garden.  If you want to give direct composting a try, you’ll definitely need a shovel to dig your hole or trenches.

Pitchfork-I want one of these. It’s another multipurpose tool with similar uses to the garden claw (mixing and aerating).  But pitchforks do a much better job scooping and moving.  They’re also better suited for larger piles and reaching deeper into the soil.

 

Compost aerator-This is a tool specifically for aerating your compost pile.  You use it by stabbing it into your pile to create air pockets within.  If you have a large pile, this would work much easier than trying to mix the whole thing with a shovel or pitchfork.  I can see this buying you a little more time between pile mixing.

 

 

Bucket-After making all that compost, you’ll want a way to haul it, right?  Introducing, a simple bucket.  Nothing too special here.

 

 

Compost Thermometer–If you want to monitor how hot your compost gets, you can get a thermometer specifically designed to stick in your compost pile.  Many are built to leave in the pile year round and are designed to easily read the ideal temperature zones for your compost.  One reason you may want to monitor the heat in the center of the compost pile is that if it gets too hot, it can start to kill off the beneficial microbes and worms that are helping your pile break down.  It’s also just plain fascinating to see how hot a compost pile can get!

 

Gloves-Depending on your tolerance of ickiness, you may want a pair of gloves.  You never know when you’ll have to dive into the pile.  It’s pretty common for food scrap goo to stick to my other tools as I’m mixing and aerating, and fixing that often requires a manual solution.  And I reeeeaaaally don’t want to touch those scraps while they’re decomposing.  Again, you’ll probably want gloves on hand for other gardening projects anyway.

 

How Do You Know It’s Working?

So you got all that know-how, found a spot for your compost, gathered your ingredients, assembled the pile in your chosen method, and rounded up your tools.  Great!  But how will you know it’s all working?  Well, if you’re in the middle of a chilly winter (like me), not much will be happening because the pile is quite cool.  But once the weather warms up or if you’re lucky to be basking in the sun right now, two things should be happening:

1. The pile will start to shrink as your ingredients begin to break down.
2. The pile will start to look like dirt over time.

No matter how you decide to compost, as long as those two things are happening, you’re on the path to success!  (If they’re not happening, try troubleshooting using the information in Part 1 or ask about it in the comments below.)

WHEN DO I HARVEST?

Your compost is generally ready to use once it looks like dark and crumbly dirt, depending on the method you went with.  But if it’s not picture perfect like the photo above, but it’s close, and you’re getting SO IMPATIENT TO USE IT, then I say go ahead.  You can mix it into your soil prior to planting or use it as an amendment after planting by gently working it into the soil around your plants without disturbing their roots.

 

Phew!  Compost overload!  This is a lot of information, I know.  But once you get your compost up and running, I think you’ll be surprised at how easy this all comes together and how forgiving of errors the process is.  Let me know in the comment section if you have more questions.  And definitely let me know if you decide to give composting a try!